During the first day of June 2010 I set sail in 'Equinox' my 24ft 6' Cornish Crabber from Chichester Marina and headed West down the Solent on a once in a lifetime adventure. Three and a half months later I completed my challenge; having sailed solo around the entire UK; visiting the Scillies, Ireland, Wales, Scotland and the Hebrides; going with huge trepidation over the top via Cape Wrath - the 'big right turn', before the next 'big right turn' heading south, at John o'Groats. This blog is my diary, written most evenings as I took stock of the day's progress; often with a huge lump of Cheddar cheese in hand and a pint of Speckled Hen to keep it company. Sometimes I was almost in tears; tiredness and frustration having taken its toll. Other nights exhuberant after breathtakingly beautiful passages along our stunning coastline with favourable following winds. It describes the ups and downs; the tears and laughter; the extraordinary kindness shown by complete strangers who offered a tired sailor in their midst refuge, solace, warmth and company; their generosity often humbling. My hormones were, I'm sure, in a mess making me perhaps rather vulnerble; as just six months earlier I'd endured the surgical removal of a cancerous prostate gland; laprascopically - a six hour procedure that left me physically weaker than before. You can read the background to the illness and the reasons for the challenge - to raise awareness of this terribe disease; that could have so easily have killed me elsewhere on this blog.

I am indebted to many; and recorded their names elsewhere; but as I reflect on the voyage many months later, I have not fully sung the praise of Cornish Crabbers, the builders of my sturdy little yacht and Roger Dongray the yacht's brilliant designer who drew upon a hull shape that had developed over hundreds of years by men who worked and fished at sea and whose very life depended on their vessel's seaworthiness. It's long keel, sail configuration and weight distribution in seemingly monsterous seas; quite incredible for a yacht so small. A Crabber 24 is not the swiftest yacht to be had for her size, for sure. But what she lacks in that respect she makes up for by her abilty to take heavy weather and harsh conditions in her stride. Built solidly without compromise, Equinox delivered me safely home after a voyage of well over 2500 miles in some of the most hostile and dangerously tidal waters you can find anywhere in Europe. In Wales, for example, the RNLI were phoned by an experienced commercial fisherman watching Equinox from his harbourside office; reporting to them, that a yacht was struggling in heavy seas and a F7 a mile outside the harbour entrance. By the time the lifeboat had been launched, I was tucked up in Aberystwyth marina; a little bruised and battered it has to be said, but safe and sound; I never even saw the lifeboat!

I've recently set up the blog so that readers can cover numerous diary entries in one go. To access earlier diary entries just click on the link 'Older Posts' at the foot of each page. Only a few clicks are needed to get to the entries at the beginning of the voyage and my preparation beforehand.

I hope you enjoy reading it; and if you do, or have done, please be kind enough to leave me a message. For which, in anticipation, I thank you.
The voyage also raised over £10,000 for the Prostate Cancer Charity - not my main goal but those who donated on my 'Just Giving ' page made a huge contribution too; as I was notified by email of each donation as it was made; each raising my spirits immeasurably. My main goal was to encourage 2500 men to get PSA tested - one for each mile sailed; and I beleive that goal was achieved too. And finally, I would also like to thank the growing number of men who have, both during and after the voyage ended, taken a PSA test, as a result of the publicty the voyage attracted; been diagnosed with the disease and taken the time and trouble to email me.

Tuesday, 31 August 2010

Islay to Lowmanland' Bay, Jura - 30th August

It will forever remain a mystery to me how two days can be so different. A wonderful stillness greeted me as I awoke. No tugging on mooring lines, no squeaking fenders; just complete and utterly perfect silence. I needed to catch up on missed sleep it seems, as it’s 7:00am. Late for me! Blinded by the brilliant sunshine as I ventured topside, I was staggered to see my two neighbours had departed and I hadn’t heard a thing! Showering at a nearby B&B woke me fully and without cornflaking was under sail by 8:15 helming around the Isle of Texa before heading north to Jura in a steady 6k breeze.

   Last night a chaotic Indian meal at the Maharani in Port Ellen marked my final night on Islay. More like a 60’s cafe with basic and totally unpretentious fittings and decor. The food however, was excellent; the Chicken Jalfrezi and Peshwari nan particularly so. The two Indians who owned, cooked and served, seemed absurdly ill prepared for the Bank Holiday onslaught. Every one of the tables was full and there was a queue for take away meals too! Add a continuously ringing phone that was answered with .... ‘It will be at least a hour......!’ Finally a local called ‘Dave’ came to the rescue and some semblance of order was restored as the two sweating owners focused on cooking. What seemed very strange was that everyone bought their own booze; except that is for me! The owner sometimes going behind the bar to bring out a carrier bag full of cans and bottles to new arrivals!
   A wonderful sail followed that took most of the day, with breathtaking views on either side of Jura Sound. I was in no rush having set my sights on Lowmanland’s Bay on Jura, so happy to drift along at 3 knots. The bay proved to be a perfect setting, secluded, empty other than for one Drascombe lugger on a swing mooring, windless and ‘The Paps’ of Jura as a backdrop – Impressive hills, the largest of which looks as though it is volcanic and had recently erupted. I though I heard a stag bellowing as dusk fell, and so still was it that I feel I could have done without the anchor. Two hens and my own stew for supper and then a wee nip of something found in Islay to keep the cold out; before falling asleep to radio 4.
It doesn't get much better than this!
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