During the first day of June 2010 I set sail in 'Equinox' my 24ft 6' Cornish Crabber from Chichester Marina and headed West down the Solent on a once in a lifetime adventure. Three and a half months later I completed my challenge; having sailed solo around the entire UK; visiting the Scillies, Ireland, Wales, Scotland and the Hebrides; going with huge trepidation over the top via Cape Wrath - the 'big right turn', before the next 'big right turn' heading south, at John o'Groats. This blog is my diary, written most evenings as I took stock of the day's progress; often with a huge lump of Cheddar cheese in hand and a pint of Speckled Hen to keep it company. Sometimes I was almost in tears; tiredness and frustration having taken its toll. Other nights exhuberant after breathtakingly beautiful passages along our stunning coastline with favourable following winds. It describes the ups and downs; the tears and laughter; the extraordinary kindness shown by complete strangers who offered a tired sailor in their midst refuge, solace, warmth and company; their generosity often humbling. My hormones were, I'm sure, in a mess making me perhaps rather vulnerble; as just six months earlier I'd endured the surgical removal of a cancerous prostate gland; laprascopically - a six hour procedure that left me physically weaker than before. You can read the background to the illness and the reasons for the challenge - to raise awareness of this terribe disease; that could have so easily have killed me elsewhere on this blog.

I am indebted to many; and recorded their names elsewhere; but as I reflect on the voyage many months later, I have not fully sung the praise of Cornish Crabbers, the builders of my sturdy little yacht and Roger Dongray the yacht's brilliant designer who drew upon a hull shape that had developed over hundreds of years by men who worked and fished at sea and whose very life depended on their vessel's seaworthiness. It's long keel, sail configuration and weight distribution in seemingly monsterous seas; quite incredible for a yacht so small. A Crabber 24 is not the swiftest yacht to be had for her size, for sure. But what she lacks in that respect she makes up for by her abilty to take heavy weather and harsh conditions in her stride. Built solidly without compromise, Equinox delivered me safely home after a voyage of well over 2500 miles in some of the most hostile and dangerously tidal waters you can find anywhere in Europe. In Wales, for example, the RNLI were phoned by an experienced commercial fisherman watching Equinox from his harbourside office; reporting to them, that a yacht was struggling in heavy seas and a F7 a mile outside the harbour entrance. By the time the lifeboat had been launched, I was tucked up in Aberystwyth marina; a little bruised and battered it has to be said, but safe and sound; I never even saw the lifeboat!

I've recently set up the blog so that readers can cover numerous diary entries in one go. To access earlier diary entries just click on the link 'Older Posts' at the foot of each page. Only a few clicks are needed to get to the entries at the beginning of the voyage and my preparation beforehand.

I hope you enjoy reading it; and if you do, or have done, please be kind enough to leave me a message. For which, in anticipation, I thank you.
The voyage also raised over £10,000 for the Prostate Cancer Charity - not my main goal but those who donated on my 'Just Giving ' page made a huge contribution too; as I was notified by email of each donation as it was made; each raising my spirits immeasurably. My main goal was to encourage 2500 men to get PSA tested - one for each mile sailed; and I beleive that goal was achieved too. And finally, I would also like to thank the growing number of men who have, both during and after the voyage ended, taken a PSA test, as a result of the publicty the voyage attracted; been diagnosed with the disease and taken the time and trouble to email me.

Thursday 15 July 2010

In trouble at Aberystwych

I decided last night it was time to flee from Fishguard after spending the day on the computer. The weather admittedly was slightly marginal with a SW wind up to F5 gusting 6. I dropped the mooring at 7am and in sunshine with one reef in and engine running set off for the 50+nm – almost a dead run to Aberystwych. I picked up a favourable tide and was soon without engine and batteries charged, wallowing along with following waves at 6+knots. The coastline is made up of near vertical cliffs and headland after headland and as each sped by so it was marked off on the chart.  The rock formations vary as do the fields perched on their steep sides and both make for interestng cruising. 
  Cardigan Island at 20 nm, provided a suitable spot to hide behind and tie in a second reef, as the wind had increased and worryingly ominous looking clouds closed up from behind, totally reducing visibility of the more distant headlands already passed. The miles sped by as Equinox hovered around the 9knots SOG.
   When within 10 miles of Aber, a gale warning was issued for the Irish Sea, by Milford Haven Coastguard, indicating winds gusting F8 and more! With foresails furled after hearing the warning, the wind started increasing and with it, the following sea ... quite quickly and dramatically!
   By the time I could see Aber clearly thorugh the rain and drizzle the seas had grown further and with engine running, I turned into wind to drop the mainsail and prepare to enter the rather tortuous concrete entrance a mere 25-50 meters meters wide with huge waves exploding on the breakwaters on both sides which, has to be approached at a precise amgle of 133degrees. I was unable to stow the sail, the sea being just too rough to stand up on the deck and deal with the ties, but as there were two reefs in, only a small billow of sail hung down to hamper matters; once, that is,  the gaff was lowered and topped off. Gusts of 38 Knots and more were making helming interesting, as I followed exactly the recommended course in. Thank God for chart plotters. My screen, set to highest detail gave me precise bearings and attack angle and fighting tide, waves and wind, shot through the narrow entrance into calm water, albeit with a strong outward flow as the tide was now ebbing fast. Quite a few people had gathered on the breakwater to watch. Indeed some were gesturing to me. Once inside, a further call on VHF Ch80 to Aber Marina was answered with instructions on where to go; as I had already told them I was unable to fender up and had not prepared my lines, for risk of them being washed over the side and into the prop!
    Aber harbour is tight and congested... very, at low tide! So there’s little, if any manoeuvring room. The instructions given were concise and having followed them, could see two men indicating frantically from a vacant slot on a pontoon. With engine idling, I let the wind do the work and it blew me sideways into my slot where professional hands held me off while I fended up and with their help tied Equinox on securely. At this point, the marina manager gave me a bollocking for being out; adding as a rider, that he was the recently retired coxswain of the lifeboat! I explained that I had judged the passage as OK, or at very worse, a little marginal. He however, was adamant that I should not have even set off! Claiming he knew about the weather warning long before Milford Coastguard announced it! He said that Marinemet had forecasted the gale as early as 7am this morning! A service I don’t use, but maybe should?
    Then a charming man, called Keith, all smiles, in a RNLI sweater and carrying a clipboard, introduced himself and asked whether I would mind filling in an 'incident form' as they had launched the inshore lifeboat on my behalf! I hadn’t even seen it. He explained that a member of the public had seen me out a sea trying to stow the mainsail and had called the RNLI on his mobile. They in turn had called Milford Haven Coastguard who tried calling me on Ch16 and failed. The RNLI too, had tried calling me on CH16 and having not received a response assumed I was in difficulty. By the time they had launched, I had passed ‘The Trap’ an evil rock formation right on the northern side of the narrow harbour entrance, that they had judged, by looking at my inbound track, I was about to wreck myself on! The explanation I gave Keith was that I was on Ch80 talking to the marina, so could not have heard either of the calls on Ch16. Anyway, he left all smiles and happy, once he realised I had some experience, had done all I could, and had all the right survival kit on board and had just been unlucky to get a gale blow up at short notice on a longish passage. Apparently, ‘The Trap’ is responsible for a considerable number of lost souls over the years, in conditions not too dissimilar to todays!
   The boat prettied up with a ‘Harbour Stow’ and with me showered and shaved and coded up with WiFi and gate locks, I grabbed a large bag of appallingly dirty and very niffy washing and set of for the Laundrette – such a romantic life! Surprisingly no one followed me, as I walked with the bag held out at arms length! Had anyone asked, I was returning a nervous skunk, with a case of bad flatulence and halitosis, to its owner!
   A pizza and two dreadful locally brewed beers from a chilly and very dour wine bar across the bridge finds me tucked up with the rain thrumming off the cabin roof and gusts blowing Equinox quite some way from the vertical, I’m settled in for the night, tucked up in my sleeping bag with a Speckled Hen – the last one! A supermarket sweep is mandatory tomorrow to track some more down... Vital survival kit and only a suitably impressive stockpile will induce the crew to stave off their planned mutiny!
    The gossip on board is rife!
   A footnote!
Just heard that Melanie Jago has written a peice about the voyage and Prostate Cancer awareness in the Cornish Guardian.

1 comment:

  1. Simon Whattler17 July 2010 at 19:32

    This is turning into compulsive reading Simon! Dangerous entrances to rock infested harbours and ranting RNLI men sounds superb fun. Well done fellow Crabber and waiting on the next instalment with bated breath! Take care though...... :)

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